basta! doesn’t look (taste or smell) like istanbul’s standard dürümcü. since opening its doors, basta! has been garnering a stellar reputation. and why shouldn’t it, especially when the likes of former nicole chef kaan sakarya and partner derin arıbaş are at the helm.
like the space, the menu too is small and seems to be filled with the familiar street food we love. and yet, like the turquoise tiles, the items on the menu tend to pop out at you. the stars of the show, here, are the dürüms (wraps). the dürüm is one of the city’s more popular street foods and usually comes in one of two options: chicken or beef. knowing the team’s professional background, we were expecting a dürüm game changer. well, we got what we expected. the team preps the five following mouth-watering, sauce-dripping dürüms: slow-cooked lamb kaburga (ribs), smoked-beef kaburga, in-house 3-day aged lamb chorizo, chicken, and finally the seasonal vegetarian option. the kaburgas seem to be the most popular dishes. rather than serving the conventional rump - so often used for kebabs – the lamb is cooked for a minimum of eight hours and served with a tunisian harissa. the beef alternative is served with sweet and tangy mustard. yeah. it’s no wonder they are popular. moreover, basta! is one of the few places that aside from serving their wraps with sauce, they actually have ribs on their menu. the latest addition to the menu is the lamb burger, for which we will be returning. for those are not famished, there are fewer, but equally delightful options such as a daily salad or the very shareable hummus. as for dessert, their inspiration is clear. the two serve two of istanbul’s favourite desserts. on the menu you’ll find the classic turkish sütlaç (similar to rice pudding) with a parisian influence as well as the french paris brest, praline cream sandwiched between two rounds of choux-pastry. albeit similar ingredients, we were delighted to find a french dessert other than the ubiquitous profiterole. while working on the same few dishes everyday may seem monotonous, the two chefs get creative with their daily/seasonal salads in addition to experimenting with new dishes on the weekends.
whether it is their intention or not, sakarya and arıbaş seem to be closing the gap between fine dining and street food. they have taken a very casual, simple dish very seriously. and, we can taste it.
much like the feeling at nicole, sakarya and arıbaş manage to play the line between the familiar and the new. it seems that a chef working in any region that has deep-rooted culinary traditions has to engage in this balancing act: creating within parameters, but without duplicating. even if it is “just” street food, the team successfully delivers a playful marriage between comfort and innovation – and, all on one menu.