a modern take on traditional mexican cuisine. acenar | san antonio, tx
my work as a travel photographer takes me to many interesting places. last week, i had the pleasure of making my first ever trip to texas to visit san antonio. home to the alamo, this city is known for rich history and colorful culture, and there's no betterplaceto find both than at the city's famous river walk.
for my latest travel column, i was invited to pay a visit to acenar, one of the city's favorite dining hot spots. texas cuisine is well known for its strong mexican influences, and acenar pays homage to that tradition with a modern take on central american dishes.
the venue's decor is a spectacular assortment of vibrant, modern design which serves as a literal metaphor for the richly colorful food they serve. the restaurant photographs beautifully, and within the first ten minutes we're already well on our way to creating a visually compelling article. the venue's open concept and cathedral ceilings offer visitors some much-needed breathing room after the human traffic jams which mob the tourist-centric river walk.
chef richard sanchez prepares a cornucopia of dishes which all seem to arrive at the same time, scattering our oversized table with little room to spare. each dish is expertly presented, again with a strong emphasis on color (a welcome element thanks to the abundance of fresh produce). visually, it's smooth sailing, each plate soaking up the camera with the zest of a baile folklórico dancer.
feeling pretty good about my finished images, i tuck into the food with high expectations. the flavors do not disappoint. first comes the grilled fillet of snapper prepared with a guajillo chili rub. the chili rub creates a crispy texture on the outside which envelopes a tender and juicy fish. on the side, the cilantro rice (which is bright green) offers a subtle flavor for balance.
next it's onto the spicy shrimp, which are almost big enough to be baby lobsters. their meaty flavor is paired beautifully with a bright, sweet, roasted cream corn pico that offers a hint of smokiness. so far, the proteins are solid, but the vegetable pairings are stealing the show.
both plates are delightful, but the dish that wins the gold metal for me is the roasted duck confit in tamarindo tomato grilled onion sauce. the duck has the consistency of a well prepared spare rib which melts off the bone. my favorite part is the burst of sweet-pickled flavor which comes from the ceviche onion garnish (chef, if you're reading this, please add more!)
so there you have it. the vibrant flavors and colorful plates stem from great ingredients presented by a creative kitchen. if you're looking to break free of the ubiquitous rice-and-refried-beans-smothered-in-cheese routine you get from most mexican restaurants, acenar definitely breaks the mold (oh, and the chocolate mousse cake is amazing too).
lewis carlyle is a writer and travel photographer