lots of curb appeal, but doesn't deliver the goods. this is one of the rare new frenchquarterplaces with a promising looking menu, but is reaching for something that it can't seem to grasp. it really registered with me how much i disliked it when i found out it was the chosen spot for a recent dinner obligation. there's so many classic dishes in new orleans, i can't see exploring the menu at sylvain any more.
the failures are quite heinous, the pappardelle bolognese being the worst offender from thought to execution. they went to the trouble to make a homemade pasta, and can't figure out how to cook it properly without it clumping into gummy blobs, and then there is the flat boring sauce. on my second someone at my table ordered this dish, she swore it was good, but i could see the same lumpy mess that i had tried. given the fact that domenica consistently makes some of the best pasta and sauces known to mankind, the kitchen at sylvain should take a page from their book on quality before getting so ambitious with pasta.
if there's one thing on a menu i can't resist next to pasta with a meaty ragu, it's sweetbreads. sylvain advertises them as buffalo-style, and that's exactly what i got, and their texture was actually delightful. so why am i bitching? because while buffalo wings are an ultimately decadent comfort food, the sauce just isn't suited—think of putting supermarket steak sauce on a properly cooked prime steak—for sophisticated food. in my mind's eye, i see a more subtle take on elements of a buffalo sauce that would work, but that would take some intuition and imagination.
even the nicely cooked beef cheeks on the first visit weren't stellar in the flavor department. the best dish of the first night was my friend's fried chicken sandwich.
to be fair, i love the atmosphere, and was really seduced by the selection on the menu. on my second visit the hamburger seemed to be the best idea because it was half the price of the other main courses. it was nicely cooked, flavorful, and an upside surprise. the cocktails are hit and miss, but there are too many other good places to explore.