there’s nothing more primal than a large piece of meat on a plate. cooked medium rare so there’s nothing left but a fleshy bone and a pool of blood from some poor mammal, as the only evidence that they too once walked this earth. the grill by sean connelly is one of auckland’s premiere steak houses. the building of thisrestaurantwas televised in a series of documentaries years ago, i’ve been intrigued about it ever since. it’s one of 6 restaurants owned and run by sean, so it’s safe to say this guy knows how to restaurant.
the layout is slick. staff have the swagger and style of your average fine dining wait staff, arms by the side, gentle small steps, polite interruptions. they even have the overly attractive maître d, a spanish looking beauty just shy of 6 foot tall who’d give penelope cruz a run for her money. yup, they’ve got it all.
the kitchen presented us with an amuse bouche to start with, an arancini type deep fried ball centered with sea food. oysters were the next choice, these served with simple condiments of a lemon infused olive oil and a vinaigrette. duck liver parfait was next, this served with a couple of thick slices of brioche, this one was not special, pretty forgettable. (coco’s cantinas parfait is all over this)
for mains it was the 650g savannah angus on the bone served with a miso hollandaise, i was disappointed that béarnaise was not an option, however the miso hollandaise more than made up for my disappointment, clearly the chefs had used nut brown butter to make this and the result was a stunning condiment. the steak of course was cooked perfectly, to be expected.
it was the biggest steak i’ve ever eaten, the most red meat i’d consumed in one sitting. it made for a great instagram post, but that’s where the magic stopped for me. half way through the steak and my palette was crying out for something new. what i was left with was the adult version of your mother telling you to eat your dinner otherwise there’d be no dessert. i had to eat every mouthful of this steak, it has just cost me $60. yes we had sides of green beans and duck fat fries, but i suppose this verdict comes down to my personal preferences ......... steaks bore me, in saying that, a slab of a5 wagyu would garner a different reaction from me.
there’s just not a lot to shout about if you fancy technique, texture and flavor over a mountain of expensive meat.
it was a novelty, yes, would i do it again, i'd have to think about it ...