fine dining in weaverville. our recent introduction to the marvelous cooking at glass onion came by accident: a rival eatery had bungled our reservation. so we wandered in, met the staff, and began a superb dinner. glass onion is a simple, sleek space with just enough decor to keep the eye engaged. the menu is ambitious, and focusses on fresh local ingredients. as we pondered the menu, our server suggested we start with a plate of truffle frites, hinting that they were something special. we hadn't come looking for fries, but the mound of flash-fried potato shavings that arrived was astoundingly good. crispy, dark gold, still hot and a tiny bit soft in the middle--and the finishing touch is a sprinkle of trufle oil that makes a simple thing divine. this promised well. for our entrees we ordered salmon and trout. what the kitchen did with those fish was nothing short of magical. the high quality and freshness of the fish remained evident in every bite, but the presentation, seasonings, and subtle sauces elevated the dishes to a truly memorable level. i have eaten a lot of restaurant trout, hoping always for something approaching the skillet-full i had decades ago at a country inn in the shenandoah valley. finally, the day has come, and i remember now why i loved trout so much. and of course good salmon is always good, but glass onion's cooks set a new benchmark for us: tender, rich, perfectly done, and a little buttery-crispy on the skin side: i don't know how they do that with a thick filet.
service: perfect. wine list: reliable and with some interesting novelties. atmosphere: friendly and keen on food.
i hope that diners in the region will flock toweavervilleto patronize glass onion. it served the best restaurant meal i have yet had in asheville, and at a price at least a third lower than other ambitious places.