as usual, i’ve grabbed a front-row seat at apizzajoint, this time the heralded delancey, a casual, friendly spot in seattle’s trendy ballard district. i get to watch smoke curling from the brick, wood-fired oven as thin, sparingly adorned pizzas are carefully lifted out with a long-handled paddle. i also get to see passing starters i wish i’d ordered: gorgeous mounds of romaine, red cabbage and shaved-grana salads or small plates of local tomatoes with sheep milk’s feta and preserved meyer lemons. but i’ve saved myself for a zoe’s bacon and onion pie, with fresh and aged mozza and scattered arugula. it’s simple, and simply delicious, with most of the ingredients locally sourced.