cafe done right. note to reader: this was written based on four visits to shuga's over the course of three weeks.
tucked away on a quiet street corner lies shuga's. a warmly lit cafe with a comfortable artsy vibe. feeling social? grab a seat at one of the hand painted tables, tune in and out of conversation, or whatever eclectic mix of music the staff is feeling partial to that day. need a bit of alone time? no problem, post up on either the front orbackpatio. i love coming here with a book in the afternoon, or with friends in the evening. i even like bringing my computer and getting a bit of work done.
for some reason, among certain crowds shuga's is the place that people love to hate. as far as i've been able to ascertain it boils down to something like, "they try too hard to be hipster/artsy/indie." that is to say, disingenuous, an impostor, a poseur, and just plain pretentious. i get the sense that the proprietors designed a place where they would like to hang out. it has that comfortable, chill vibe that you just do not get in corporate chain. it has personality. that authenticity is reflected in the satisfying cafe fare, coffee, and drinks that have brought mebackagain.
to begin with, i really, really like their coffee. in the midst of a sea of mediocrity there are two coffee places that truly stand out in colorado springs: agia sophia, and shuga's. to be fair, i find the drip coffee at shuga's to be slightly above average but, i'm an americano guy, get that right and i'm happy. shuga's vivace espresso has a deep, refined flavor with a lovely frothy crema that truly gratifies the senses and prompts you to savor the rich repast. but good espresso is not just about the product, the barista has a lot to do with it. unfortunately, you will get the occasional bad cup from an inexperienced barista.
the spicy brazilian coconut shrimp soup is standout. i rarely order the same thing repeatedly, but i am yet to be bored with this soup. it is a complex coconut milk based soup, spiced perfectly with ginger, jalapeno. the cilantro and lime flavors are delightfully understated, and serve to cut the richness of the coconut milk. my favorite thing about the soup is the perfect amount of heat that lingers just right after each bite. it rounds out a very balanced dish. the butterflied shrimp are overcooked, though not reprehensibly so, and i forgive them this because it is a four dollar bowl of soup and you can't expect it to be prepared a la me nude. the toasted sesame seed garnish adds a slight textural contrast and a note of color.
the tuscan chicken & artichoke soup with shitake mushrooms, baked chicken, wine, tomato, and artichoke heart was good, but not on par with the coconut shrimp. it tasted something like a play on minestrone-sans beans-with shitake mushrooms replacing the noodles and chicken instead of ham. the artichoke hearts would have been clever addition, but unfortunately they consisted of a few minuscule particles that were rendered tasteless in the tangy tomato base. the chicken was very overcooked and dry, braising it might have been a better approach.
the cuban mojo (roasted pork, ham, pickle, swiss cheese, mustard, and mojo sauce on rustic bread) was a satisfying sandwich. however, some of the components in the description that initially attracted me were lost among a cacophony of bold flavors. i'm an unabashed pork lover and a big fan of cuban pork. sadly i only really tasted the ham which was of the average store bought variety. i cannot comment on the mojo sauce because either, the mustard and pickle drowned it out completely, or they forgot to put it on the sandwich. despite these shortcomings i really enjoyed the toasted rustic bread. it is reminiscent of focaccia, but denser, crispier (it was grilled), and more robust. perfect soup-dipping bread.
the montreal (brie, pear, ham, scallion butter grilled on rustic bread) had loads of potential but didn't quite deliver. the flaws were in the ingredients: the pear was not ripe and that grocery store ham was a bit off-putting. i enjoyed the sandwich overall. it just wanted the pears to be sauteed briefly in some butter, salt and pepper, and "homemade" ham to make it something special. conceptually, it is a wonderful idea, the rich, creamy, and salty brie along with the sweet, fruity pear and savory ham ought to create a successful sandwich but shortcuts and low quality ingredients do not allow for excellence.
shuga's has that intangible warm cafe vibe that i feel is sadly lacking amongst the shiny, plastic, efficient and ergonomic, coffee houses that currently dominate the landscape of colorado springs. the service is nonchalant and i like that. it is a welcome break from the rehearsed, rushed, and in your face corporate coffee pitch. this place is unique, an homage to true cafe culture. check it out.
overall: 7.5/10