shiver me timbers, blow me down. everyrestaurantopens with truest wishes that people will flock to their doors, become regulars, and love their product. no one i know in the food biz is there to skip-load the money into their bank accounts---they're there because they love food and love giving a great dining experience to their clientele, whether it's a dog cart in d.c. or a michelin 3 star. but most restaurants struggle with standing out and finding their loyal clientele, especially in this tough economic drift. not the case with pago, located in the 9th & 9th neighborhood of salt lake city. tucked into a brick building with only 48 seats, open kitchen, and two of the most talented chefs at the stoves anywhere, pago serves food that is bright, innovative, and crave-inducing. the wines are thoughtfully chosen, and affordable. you won't have to get a 3rd mortgage to eat here on a regular basis. plus, they've got weekly lunch and brunch on the weekends, so how can you miss?
i went to a preview dinner and each dish i tried was awesome. findlay has the chops with flavor, but he scores big points for texture and surprising depth that unfolds with every bite.
to wit: a salad of cinnamon beets. i loath almost anything with cinnamon in it, largely because the flavor overpowers everything else in the dish. here, plump slices of red, yellow and striped local beets were served slightly warmer than room temp with a silky slab of goat cheese atop them. sprinkled over the cheese was a light vinaigrette and cinnamon basil sprouts. genius? yes, but more sublime was the cinnamon/nut/chocolate brittle sprinkled over the plate. perfect accent that neither fought nor overpowered the simple complexity of the dish.
the entree was sole on a bed of artichokes and fava beans with a shimmering veil of sublime aioli atop the perfectly cooked fish. the velvety back of the favas with the tang of the artichokes made the perfect frame for the fish---wish i had both the salad and entree in a big fat left-over box in the fridge right now!
dessert was a conundrum so i had a 1/2 &1/2 and am i glad i did. one was a sparkling strawberry rhubarb tart in house made pastry. served warm and topped with lush vanilla ice cream and mint chiffonade, i seriously was thinking how i could snatch the waiting tray and spirit the ruby beauties home for breakfast. the other 'half' of my dessert was banana bread pudding. chef richey was off the hook for that little gem. dense little square of banana bread like i thought only my grannie made, served warm with some insane whiskey caramel sauce and the aforementioned ice cream. honest, i have no idea what happened to the rest of the pan!
i had a great wine as well, that i drank through all the courses. it was bright and mellow at the same time, with grapefruit notes that slowed to buttery sweetness in a surprisingly dry wine. scrumptious. it was ermita veracruz verdigo 2007 and i can imagine it with any summer menu.
i like to sit at the bar overlooking the kitchen---i've learned more from watching my favorite chefs at work than i ever did in the myriad classes i've taken. the kitchen at pago is teensy, but mike and adam have a concert of motion that balances the food across from the pass, and the stellar wait staff is over the top in everything service should be, and is here. not too formal or stuffy, looking out for both their own tables as well as lending a hand to other waiters when things get dicey or rushed. watch the pass in anyrestaurantand you'll know instantly if either the chefs &/or the wait staff give a rat's hairless tail---it is evident that the care is deeply ingrained at pago. don't be surprised if you see the owner, scott, pitching in with a wine suggestion, or working the pass himself!
pago is the kind of neighborhoodrestauranti'd go after a long day, maybe for an appetizer or dessert with a great glass of wine, take the relatives there for sunday brunch, or go for a special occasion. the food is 'wake-up-in-the-middle-of-the-night-craving-some' good, the prices are fair, they use local suppliers and they love what they are doing. i predict you will as well.