i was reminded of how much i enjoy oysters when i tasted some lovely plump ones from ancuig seafoods at the scottish food show last week. so when it was suggested that we go to mussel inn for dinner friday night i knew immediately what my starter would be. the mussel inn isn’t one of the places that ancuig supplies, and i’m not going to discuss the relative values of oysters, but i will wax lyrical over a meal of molluscs. ah, a beautiful thing, the mollusc, when fresh, sea-scented and accompanied by a clean white wine.
the mussel inn is a mid-sized and from the outside a somewhat unassuming restaurant tucked away on rose street, not all that far from seadogs. it suggests sea food from the get-go: there are huge mosaic fish on the walls and there’s a fairly fishy ambiance. the menu is straightforward and fish-focussed. mussels is an unsurprising speciality and comes in half kilo or kilo pots in several different sauces.
since my mind was set on starting my meal with a half-dozen oysters, i thought it only logical to make my main a half-kilo of mussels in a shallot sauce.serviceis snappy so there was not long between order and starter.
the oysters made me very happy. they had that perfect sea flavour that needs no fiddling, although i find it difficult not to squeeze a little bit of lemon on, just because i like lemons so much. these would have been perfect on their own, dressed in nothing but their delectable liquor.
i enjoy the way mussel inn serves mussels. they come in a large pot, with the sauce written on the lid. the lid is where the shells go as you empty the pot. the shallot mussels come in a white wine, shallot and cream sauce. i was tempted by the natural mussels who come in nothing but their own juices, but the shallot won me over. it had a light flavour that complemented the mussels well. not overpowering, and light despite the cream. i ate it all greedily.
my companion had the vegetarian pasta. it came with mushrooms and a few leaves of spinach. really, not something worth talking about. not like the mussels. so let’s get back to them.
mussels are finger food: i eat mine using a small shell to pick the meat out of larger shells. i use larger shells to spoon up the sauce even when spoons are supplied. i stack the empty shells inside each other to save time (and because it looks pleasing). i enjoy hands-on food and i enjoy being hands-on with it. the lemon wipe at the end of the meal is very welcome.
to finish, i had affogato. exquisitely simple and a delightful mixture of adult and childish pleasures, affogato is vanilla ice cream onto which you pour espresso and liqueur. i chose amaretto to make the perfect indulgent and silly desert to round off a perfect meal.
the bill came to £60 which really impressed me considering that we had two 3-course meals and a £20 bottle of viognier.servicewas friendly and prompt. mussel inn gets busy on a friday and is quite buzzy too. tables at the mussel inn are close together so you can listen in to your neighbour’s conversation if you have none yourself.
it is a really good place for mussels. straight up.