impressed by fruition, alex seidel’s inspired modern american cooking and adherence to concepts of sustainability not only delicious and inspired, but immensely respectable as well, mercantile dining & provisions was nothing short of requisite for a late-morning snack during the last day in denver, my only regret being sold out bread pudding and the fact that i did not visit sooner as i’d have liked to return for lunch or dinner, too.
located in the dining concourse atunionstation, the still-functional downtown transportation landmark in the process of completing recent renovations and featuring some of the biggest restaurant openings of the last couple years, mercantile dining & provisions is one part market and another part eatery, all three meals featuring their own distinct menus while a grab n’ go counter proves ideal for folks on their lunch hour, or even those in a hurry to catch a train.
a gorgeous space in the early morning, floor to ceiling windows bathing both dining room and kitchen in the sun’s brilliant rays, those arriving before 11am are encouraged to peruse the pastry counter before taking a look at a small but well-culled menu, the options later expanding to encompass everything from soups and salads to housemade pastas and plates more substantial, 5pm service even including “family style” dinners with offerings subject to the chef’s whim and daily market change.
listing nearly everything by source, several items coming from seidel’s own fruition farms, it was while watching the open kitchen that i stood patiently waiting in a short line where coffee and baked goods are offered, the eventual order consisting of just four items, though looking back on the day’s later meals i only wish that i’d have bought more.
no doubt infusing americana with european concepts throughout much of mercantile’s layout, as well as the bill of fare, breakfast began with still-warm monkey bread awash in caramel and butter before moving to a savory riff on the traditional cinnamon roll, this one topped bacon shavings atop thick frosting and the tightly curled brioche bun.
no doubt executing the aforementioned well, but even better when turning eyes towards modernized classics from france, both the pain au raisin and almond croissant were riddled with nuts and butter amidst arching layers of crisp lamination, the former mellowing yellow raisins with pistachios while the later is not only bigger than most, but also far better with a shell guaranteed to make a mess of any surface while the inside is stuffed with pureed almonds instead of cloying frangipane.