the laksa i've been looking for .... i've been eating laksa in sydney since the 1970s when the malaya was a one-room joint with laminex tables on george st where we used to go for sunday lunch to burn off our hangovers. i've chased good laksas all over town, i've crossed the harbour in search of them, i've trailed through the inner west and all over inner sydney. and i've gotta say, the laksa at this place is the best i've eaten. the chicken is generous, the broth is rich and complex and spicy enough to raise a sweat without laying you out. sure it's crowded, but that's because everyone knows it's so damn good. i've eaten there a dozen times and the quality of the laksa does vary ... from delicious to absolutely superb. i haven't tried the other items on the menu: every time i go there i front the counter intending to say "char kway teow" or "kapitan chicken", but when the moment of truth arrives ... it's laksa every time!