at number one eagle street pier, gleaming through its glassy white and gold, is the modern italian restaurant, il centro. with a cocktail party across at mr and mrs g riverbar and a small wedding dinner in the private section, this restaurant was bustling on a weekday. unfortunately without any complimentary breads, we ordered our first dish of the night: insalata di granseola. it was a refreshing mix of crab and avocado on crisp lettuce leaves rounded off by the rich tang of the tomato gazpacho. birthday girl had the pollo, roasted chicken breast sweating with juice accompanied with creamy ricotta gnocchi, wild mushrooms and balsamic jus. dad had the anatra, slow cooked duck still with a hint of pink, smooth celeriac panna cotta, mixed peas and speck and a spoonful of spiced apple chutney. little brother ordered the pesce barramundi, beautifully crisp yet a soft tender fillet, served with roasted baby potatoes, sauteed heirloom beans and b