my sense of heightened anticipation on knowing i was going to dinner by heston was astronomical. i was so excited to finally be sampling the cooking of a gastronomic master. perhaps this was part of the problem and the restaurants ultimate downfall in my opinion.
i'm a firm believer as i have said previously and in all other reviews that restaurants should be rated like for like. in this case as it is heston blumenthal it deserves to be rated alongside the likes of alain ducasse and gordon ramsay and other great chefs.
the restaurant itself is fairly dark but with nice decor and an oddly intimate feel for a large space. the jelly moulds that serve as lights on the walls are an interesting and quirky feature, something i would expect from a brain like heston's. having said that it does seem to lack personality when you consider the chef involved.
before you even consider looking at the menu for dinner, be aware that your wallet will be seriously invaded. with starters ranging between £15 and £20 and main courses ranging anywhere between £25 and £80 you are not getting something for nothing at this restaurant. sadly in some cases it feels like you're getting nothing for a very big something.
as an overview i would say that this is a very normal fine dining experience which is what is so disappointing when you consider that the chef is heston blumenthal. going to this restaurant with the expectation that you will sample mind and taste buds confusing that the lights, the food that looks like one thing and taste like another, or something completely mind-boggling, will only disappoint as it did me. yes, this restaurant does have meat fruit the famous pate that looks like a clementine on the menu, but that is about as far as the mind tricks go. this restaurant is very clearly hestons very pricey version of a normal cuisine. there was some exquisite pieces of culinary expertise displayed throughout the meal most notably the chicken oysters, the octopus, and this seabass. however when incorporated into the meals, the lack of flavour and texture combinations failed to well and the amazing cooking technique was lost. again as an overview, because so many aspects of our meal were cooked in a water bath, or su vide as is the correct term, we left feeling that we had not had a hot meal. everything was of warmish temperature. the overriding feeling was one that you were not satisfied.
from start to finish then: the bread was normal and yes they had a gluten-free which was different from normal rice based store bought, but fairly unimpressive when considering other gluten-free bread i have experienced at other high-class fine dining restaurants.
my starter the octopus, i must say it was a real wow. the cooking of the octopus itself was exquisite, very soft, and the flavour was smoky and delicious. however the broth and it's accompaniments failed to live up to the octopus itself. our other starter was the chicken oysters which again themselves were absolutely exquisitely cooked. delicious. however again the meal as a whole failed to impress as much as the individual elements.
my main course was the seabass, and it was hands down the most perfectly cooked a piece of fish i have ever had. it is so sad to say it was ruined by a large portion of what i think was the lovage underneath the fish. as it looks like spinach i took a large mouthful and physically had to remove it from my mouth it was so unpleasant. whatever possessed them to put such a large amount of such a strong flavour with a delicate yet robust fish is beyond me. it completely ruined what was a phenomenal piece of fish. how are the main course was the powdered duck which we ordered with fries. powdered meant smoked and the duck was pleasant but warm and not hot, and was not a patch on the duck we have previously enjoyed at city social by chef jason atherton. both of us wanted to continue eating the fries as they were the most satisfying part of the meal due to their temperature.
for desert we ordered the chocolate bar and the special ice cream which is made with liquid nitrogen at your table. something you would expect from heston as you have probably seen it so many times on the television.the chocolate bar with caramel inside and passionfruit flavour was rich and indulgent but the ginger ice cream was not to my taste in fact i found it unpleasant. the ice cream that was made tableside with special toppings and it's little cone was delightful but unremarkable.
coffee came up with a small glass thimbleful of ganash, which was very nice.
there were some lovely touches in the experience. surrounding the menu was a small paper card, which when opened contained historical facts about food. lovely touch.
something slightly concerning for such a fine dining establishment, were little marks of etiquette that were overlooked. when we asked to retain the wine list for further contemplation this somellier removed it and returned it later. also when we did order red wine, it was presented in a white wine glass. these things. by no means ruin an experience, and it would seem that i am being very picky, but in an establishment such as this, these things should be presented properly.
all in all, i am very glad we tried it out. however, i would not recommend anyone go to dinner, when there are so many great places to experience beforehand. and at a lower price. a very disappointing experience. it has not however put me off experiencing the fat duck, which i hope very much will live up to my expectation of heston.
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