food: central's been spotlighted on shows like "pitmasters," "the best thing i ever ate," and "bbq with bobby flay." that attention is well deserved. fave: i hardly had the first rib to my lips when my mouth went into full-on, premature foodgasm - and i hadn't even laid on the sauce yet! so smoky those ribs were ... tender, meaty, juicy, with a slightly chewy exterior. i’ve sampled many of the items from their menu, but the half-slab ribs plate, $15.99, is my favorite. flat-out the best ribs i've ever had. juicy but not fatty. beautifully tender, but not completely falling apart. delectable. if you don't find yourself wanting to suck on the bones, i'll be surprised. a few other items worth mentioning: bbq beans (included with the meal). they look like very saucy pork-n-beans, but when you gobble up a spoonful - surprise! it's got a pronounced jalapeño kick, while at the same time, the sauce it pointedly sweet. a very interesting combination, and quite new to me. ghost river "riverbank red" irish-style red ale, $4.50. a local brew. mild, well-balanced, lightly sweet, lightly hoppy. excellent with the ribs. smoked hot wings, $9.99. marinated overnight, slow smoked, then finished in the deep fryer. served dry (with hot rub). in a word: hot. bbq nachos, $10.25. pulled pork served atop a bed of tortilla chips, topped with bbq sauce, cheese sauce, shredded cheese, and jalapenos. finished off with a light dusting of bbq shake. service: order at the counter, take a seat, they’ll bring it to you. this place gets jam-packed crowded, and they do agreatjob keeping up. ambiance: everybody comes here, so it’s like a memphis microcosm: lots of diversity, southern overtones, and a thick veneer of low-brow funkiness. you should try: the mild bbq sauce. it’s perfect ... everything you'd ever dream of in a bbq sauce: balanced, sweet, tangy, slightly smoky. if they'd've let me, i'd've bathed in it.