thoughtful northern italian. helmed by recent james beard best chef northwest winner holly smith, cafe juanita offers up lovingly prepared, artful food. neither too small nor too big, too pretentious nor too laid-back, therestaurantsetting is warm and inviting (yet still elegant) with an open kitchen through which you can watch the magic happen at a comfortable distance.
the food here is excellent and beautifully prepared and presented and we did manage to at least try several starters, including the rabbit livers and kidneys with caramelized onion, toasted anchovy, and currants, the veal sweetbreads with fried capers and parsley, and the carne cruda of wagyu beef. of these, the carne cruda really shone. it was prepared very simply with high quality olive oil, lemon, sea salt, a mince of chives and raw shallot, and shaved parmigiano reggiano. it was topped with a poached quail's egg and arrived looking every-so-slightly unappetizing (minced and in a mound on the plate) next to thin slivers of crostini. but, one bite dissolved any squeamishness the presentation might have inspired. the sweetbreads were also great - crispy on the outside and creamy on the inside - and abundant. indeed, all the portion sizes at cafe juanita are big (maybe a hair on the side of too big?).
for our entree course (as i mentioned above), most of us went for the rabbit braised in arneis. this dish is rich, hearty, and delicious. i had one of the specials, which was a seared skate wing served with brown butter sauce and olives. it was...just okay. the skate wing was a little mushy and not so very flavorful on its own. it was served with an avocado puree that paired very well with the fish and ultimately saved the dish. for dessert we all indulged in a flourless chocolate cake (described very aptly by our server as being like "the inside of a truffle") topped with a malted chocolate ice cream. it was very good, but not transcendent. for wine we moved through several bottles of barbera d'alba.