the central west end of st. louis is home to a wide variety of restaurants–ethnic, cheap, upscale, fun, exciting, you name it. this critical mass was probably a draw for gerard craft of niche, enticing him to open one of his more casual concepts in the area. though the fare may not be exciting at brasserie by niche it’s definitely solid, well-executed and a credit to the brand. the restaurant conjures up visions of dining in paris at a lovely little bistro, complete with chalkboard specials, punched metal ceilings and period lamps. i knewdinnerwas going to be a treat when our server put a piece of epi pain (a style of french baguette) directly on the brown paper covering the table, along with a small crock of homemade butter. the menu is a collection of classic french hits–french onion soup, escargot, pate, goat cheese tart, coq au vin, roast chicken, cassoulet, mussels and fries and, of course, steak frites. the beet salad (graciously split for us