i "like" a tavola but i am against it in principal.. otr food is a good thing, however i have noticed a trend of salt over content and a lack of respect for freedom in the style of cooking. most restaurants in otr specialize in the "black box" or "black line" method of gimmicks and well prepared guy fieri style machinations of hotplates and deep salt content, often presented in "luxury" fry baskets, duck-fat batter, etc.
i find this gimmicky method of cooking to be irritating, lately. it is as if some special ingredient (duck fat) or creative combination (duck sliders) is going to make your food better. instead, what often happens is that a "black line" appears over the menu items and plates upon delivery. a pre-established methodology of cooking replaces a general sense of the foods freedom, hence the black line drawn around the flavor, constraining each element to its own locale. salt is a great black line, it will certainly cause more severity in the strength of a black line. perhaps a lack of a black line or food freedom is brought about by preparation, chopping, handling, mixing, sifting, placing... a general sense of "soul" in a food to replace a general sense of "gimmick"... most often "gimmick" meaning market value in the eyes of a status obsessed locale.
so, a tavola. the first few times i went here, i did not like it. the food was too rich, the sauce tiresome, the dough not crispy in the way i like. however, i now do see that this is "gourmet" pizza with a different emphasis on the quality and depth of the flavors. this is not as much "cram it in" pizza as it is "fill up while mildly savoring the good ingredients and salt content" pizza. i must note that i enjoy eating here. i would like this review to serve as something of a critique of otr food in general, of which a tavola is a part, if not one of the main offenders.
the cheese ball appetizer is to be commended, as are the meatballs. however, is salt required to bring out a flavor to this extent? are we cincinnatians really so blind to the black line method and the dire consequences of saltation? i believe many of us are, though i do hold out hope for a new dining with respect to the decrease of the black line as well as an increasing presence of a lack of "bar stools," duckfat fritters, and highly regulated dinner ordainments. these must be replaced by freeflowing spaces of hot food and low salt content. portion constrainment (dish method) in combination with salt battery is no longer enjoyable for me.