roti-wrangling has given way to coal stoking at the gated compound on the corner of goulburn street, at the entrance to the busy dixon street pedestrian mall. yang san park is a korean barbeque joint with a difference: very good service! the young, effective all-male floor team quickly seats us. the short menu has a good cross-section of all your korean barbeque favourites, but if you’re dining as a couple, you should definitely consider getting the combination set ($32/person). as we settle in with a bottle of kooksoondang korean rice wine ($13) a generous array of banchan (side dishes) are peppered onto our table. there’s the expected kimchi, a ball of sweet yellow mash, tart pickled onions, and a lovely square of pickled chilli cabbage. a glowing red pot of coals are delivered from the restaurant’s central furnace and a variety of meat plates arrive – pork belly, ox tongue, thin skirt, marinated pork rib, chicken and beef rib. before we’ve even thought about...