not being a canberra local, i’ve got literally no idea where narrabundah is. to find xo, i rely upon uber, and my friend’s assurance that nothing in canberra is more than thirty minutes away from anything else. the restaurant’s straight white neon lights cut an oddly modern swathe through the retro suburban shopping strip. blonde wood panelling down one side gives the simple, modern fit out some organic form. the same wood is inset into the ceiling horizontally to stop the long, narrow space from becoming too loud. periodic curtains on the exposed brick side also work to dampen sound, and create a sense of intimacy. rudely, we’re early for our busy friday night booking, but personable co-owner kent nhan makes it work without making us feel inconvenient. he even accommodates our preference for a table with chairs, rather than bar stools. we soon kick off our two-night canberra sojourn with an appropriately named cocktail – the weekend ($18). it takes tanqueray gin, lime, ginger and chilli syrup and muddles them into a feisty adventure. the japerol spritz ($18) updates the italian aperitivo with a fifty-fifty yuzu sake blend, and clues you into the xo brief: unapologetically loud modern asian fusion. we get our first dish - strange taste eggplant ($17) – almost...