beast of a burger. more often than not, my experiences with portlands most revered burgers, (and there have been plenty of them), is that they rarely deliver on the hype that precedes them. places like foster burger, eastburn, violetta and matchbox lounge left me wondering if there was something i had missed. perhaps i was expecting too much? then, when i had almost given up, low and behold, i wander out of slow bar drunk on the knowledge that a hamburger can still indeed be; a mighty fine thing.
first, while i am often left scoffing at cost vs. value in these situations, for the first time in a coons age, i felt like my money was well spent. it was obvious from the outset that everything in front of me was quality with a capital q. handmade (1/2 pound) patty made with local, grass fed beef, gruyere cheese, grand central bun, crisp cool butter lettuce and of course; their house made onion rings. they even chill their ketchup!? honestly, who does that? awesome. the fries (i believe) are of the frozen variety, but still; are pretty damn good. anyhow, i take a bite of this thing and viola! there it was; happy lights began flashing in the burger graveyard of my mind. once there was a view afforded, i took a peek into the makings of this beast and could see the herbs and seasoning in there that made it be more than just a bite of meat. the flavor of the gruyere worked in with these others faultlessly. grand centrals dense, but delicate pillar of strength never came close to faltering and the onion rings brought their own crunchy texture and hint of sweetness to the table. fries were also excellent. all this for $9.75. (which is cheaper than every place i have listed above). on the other side of the table my wife was gushing over her summer salad; a medley of grilled chicken, bacon chunks, cucumber, mixed baby greens, spiced nuts, rogue blue cheese and basil showered in a raspberry vinaigrette. she said it was probably one of the best salads she's had since we moved to portland 2 years ago.
i still love my club 21 burger (especially for the price) but this is a horse of a different color. one that we will gladly hop back up onto sometime very soon.
grade: a (the gentleman bartending left us wanting for nothing)