europe-trained and multiply awarded for his work in several international pastry competitions it was finally in 2010 that chef john kraus decided it was time to open a space of his own, and although southwest minneapolis now possesses the likes of revival, meyvn and sun street breads it was patisserie 46 that turned the area into a “destination” just as it continues to today.
located at the corner of west 46th street and grand avenue south, a sunbathed facade just past 7am welcoming guests with the aroma of yeast and vanilla before even reaching the door, it is immediately on entering the patisserie that eyes widen at warm wood and a lengthy display case, other folks arriving clearly regulars as they were greeted by name with warm smiles by a pair of young women.
said by many to be not only minnesota’s best bakery but also a national contender for that title, kraus’ brioche in particular an item often mentioned as one worth seeking out, it was after lengthy perusal that five items were selected, two still warm and thus dictating an order of eating which began with kouign amann that breaks clean displaying countless layers and a melted butter center surrounded on all sides by caramelized sugar.
at times working with whimsy but mostly dedicated to the creation of classics par excellence, an almond croissant next showing lamination equal to the kouign amann but unfortunately a touch too much moisture at the bottom, it was here that kraus’ famous bread took center stage in the form of a crustless round that better saw almond paste baked crisp atop a soft base lightly painted with jelly.
happy to see canele de bordeaux offered, patisserie 46’s version ending a streak of below average versions found stateside with a crunchy shell and just-set custard heavily scented by vanilla, it was rounding out the visit with a seasonal tart that precision continued to show, the all-butter crust razor-sharp and both cream and custard lightly floral which worked well with sliced figs on top.