shut-out on pastiche due to holiday closures during two prior visits to providence it was finally on saturday that a group of eight gathered, one item each plus coffee and tea tallying $93, though the results attest to an eatery that has earned its accolades.
originally founded as a wholesale concept, the idea to improve other restaurants in the area eventually yielding the current café at 92 spruce street, guests entering the space will quickly notice cozy environs created by tight seating and a european-air that sees many guests lingering over last bites and quiet conversation.
not a place for the hurried, a queue commonly found both early and late on every day but mondays (and holidays) when closed, it is from seats that those dining-in are asked to order, auto-grat for large parties only appropriate as an hour-long stays undoubtedly cut into the bottom-line even though take-out business remains brisk.
still owned by eileen collins and brandt heckert for over thirty-five years, competition most certainly having grown stronger though pastiche remains the city’s most highly-regarded bakery, it was not long after ordering that beverages arrived, the coffee a medium local roast with developed caramel notes that paired well to first bites of a warmed slice of pecan pie without any cloying “jam” but instead heavily caramelized nuts and thin but buttery crust.
producing some three-dozen choices on federal hill each day, such volume creating many difficult choices for those who cannot visit frequently, it was after just one bite of a scone which eats more like a muffin that attention turned to coconut cake, the crumb moist but airy between layers of buttercream frosting riddled with freshly-cut pulp rather than the store-bought shredded stuff.
not waiting any longer to sample the famous fruit tart, $8.50 per slice for vanilla custard, kiwi, peaches and berries a bit steep though the fruits are impeccable for the northeast during winter, those looking for a better bargain should instead consider a $6.50 wedge of carrots, raisins and cream cheese made bold by plenty of cinnamon and cloves or high-rise banana cream pie that is second to none except perhaps emeril lagasse’s.
saving richest for last, though tablemates were already proclaiming one of pastiche’s daily specials as the best item ordered, it was immediately upon inserting fork that one could tell this was no ordinary “crumb cake,” thin ribbons of butterscotch creating substantial heterogeneity and balanced sweetness only improved by whipped cream while the cream cheese brownie was alsogoodbut definitely best shared considering its heft.