after many a fine brunch in the states this summer, i decided to up my game in london starting with highly-rated m1lk in balham, located on work-in-progress hildreth street.
the "no reservations" queue was in full flow by the time i arrived at 11.20, but their superb workshop coffee was available and the sun was shining - so far, so williamsburg. the atmosphere was buzzing, and with good reason judging by the look of the food being brought out. before too long we had a table for five indoors and were eyeing up themenuand the striking décor.brunch isn't a meal for messing around sharing everything on the menu. it's about getting a massive portion of something delicious (potentially with hangover cure benefits if necessary) and keeping it all to yourself. this led to three of us ordering the same wonderfully named convict muffin (did i mention m1lk is run by australians?). it was a criminally good choice - english muffin, drycure bacon, m.moens sausage, burford brown egg, poacher hash, hangover sauce - £7.90. i don't know what hangover sauce is, but i want it every sunday.
non-convicts went for billy the kid (red clover honeycomb, goat's cheese, sourdough, flowers - £6.90) and young betty (poached eggs on woodfired sourdough, drycure bacon, burnt butter hollandaise, with young spinach & chinese chive - £7.80 + supplement), both of which looked smashing. next time...
and brunch is as simple as that. no starters. nomenuexplanations. no small plates. isn't it great? i should write about it more, it's a lot quicker. m1lk stands up to the best that new york & co. have to offer, and i expect i will be back again very soon, not least because there is a brand new beer & homebrew store round the corner called we brought beer.
one place that might soon compete with m1lk for my affections is fields café, their sister joint which is currently taking shape in the building next to the skate park on clapham common. get a load of these potential dishes:
- coal-grilled sausage bao, kewpie, pickled shallot & iceberg
- peat-smoked mutton & beans, garden herb butter & sourdough
- smashed peas, hay-smoked goat’s curd, garden herbs & sourdough
- sticky rice pudding, apple, soured cream ice-cream & sake
- banana bread, nesquik mascarpone and salted panela
exciting. keep track of their progress on twitter.
n.b. m1lk is open 8am-5pm monday – saturday, and 9am-5pm sunday - so brunch isn't limited to the weekend! no reservations.