temporarily shuttered for renovation, but now open once again across from the buffet at wynn, it is at la cave wine and food hideaway that diners can find a different sort of “all you can eat” experience from 10:30am until 2:00pm on weekends.
opened in late 2010 by michael morton, at that time the only wynnrestaurantoperated by an outside source but now joined by both urth café as well as cipriani, it is at a hostess podium outside that guests are first met, staff then escorting them past a neon fixture reading “in vino veritas” en route to a dining room decorated in dark wood and foliage.
built to resemble the tasting rooms of northern california, a pair of bars including one with seating flanked by temperature-controlled vaults, it is seated on leather chairs as light enters from opaque glass that menus are offered, the first a lengthy list of wines by the bottle or glass and the other a collection of small plates served “butler style.”
intimate in terms of atmosphere, a light soundtrack and hushed conversations complimented by staff who bring around a list of twenty items at varying intervals, it was with one diner adding-on bottomless bloody marys and mimosas that the other opted for coffee and a cocktail, the tuscan pear offering a syrupy mouthfeel but plenty of booze reined in by bright citrus.
offering american small-plates by chef billy demarco, several years with the morton group including the opening of crush at mgm following years in new york, it is not long after arrival that food begins to circulate, an opening gazpacho ‘shooter’ refreshing by way of basil oil while sliced tomatoes around fresh mozzarella and a basil leaf were brightened by a drizzle of balsamic vinegar.
moving next to yogurt, granola and fresh fruit, each item presented from a tray for the guest’s acceptance or denial, it was from a cone lined with paper that snappy sausage and bacon were plucked before transitioning to “chicken and waffles,” or in the case the choice of wing or drumstick tossed with mexican hot sauce atop a quarter circle that remains crisp around the edges and fluffy on the inside.
quiet around 11:30 but filling to perhaps quarter capacity by noon, those dissuaded by 45-minute lines at the buffet all but guaranteed a better experience for approximately the same price at la cave, it was atop filet grilled medium that a poached egg and paprika was served, the english muffin readily soaking up yolk and hollandaise sauce just as a skillet of polenta offered in follow-up had become thick by way of saturation with cream, pecorino cheese and truffle oil.
delighting with toasted bagels and lox, the house-smoked fish served in a good ratio to classic condiments, fans of hash will also appreciate demarco’s shredded veal served with peppers and potatoes while angus “mini burgers” are also nicely presented and far from the typical slider thanks to mushrooms served like a spread along with smoky mayonnaise.
underwhelmed by both flatbreads, a staple of the lunch and dinner menu unfortunately undercooked and presented luke-warm, it was with good fortune that these were quickly followed by all-new snickers pancakes topped in bananas foster, the melted chocolate and caramel adding unexpected texture to fluffy buttermilk and the overall sweetness assuring no additional syrup was necessary.
swapping out share plates on request, a necessity for those not wanting to mix sweet with savory, it was after another round of grits that la cave’s egg “sandwich” arrived, the flavor highlighted by tomato plus a touch of heat while “loaded” tots were heavy but delicious thanks to bacon, cheddar and brown gravy.
finishing up sweet, a male server who scampered off after presenting one tiny piece of tepid french toast doing a disservice to what might have otherwise been a decent dish, it was after another skillet of chicken and waffles that another type of waffle was offered, this one riddled with cinnamon and topped with apples plus mixed berries that led nicely into pastries and cookies highlighted by a soft and chewy oatmeal raisin round plus an incredibly light raspberry muffin that turned out to be gluten-free.
four stars: smartly designed for the sort of guests typically visiting wynn, la cave wine and food hideaway’s butler-style brunch offers good value for just $42 per person thanks to well-designed plates, professional service and the sort of room conducive to quiet conversation and relaxation.