authentic upscale izakaya, right here in columbus. a favorite game amongst many foodies is to discuss what you would choose, if you were to die tomorrow, as your last dish or last bite of food. personally, i've always found it entirely too difficult to narrow this down to one specific item - even when i can provide an answer, my answer always varies with my mood, what i've been eating lately, the season, who i'm with, etc. if you were to ask me where i'd have my last meal, however, i'd confidently state kihachi and not look back (and that's even coming from a westerner, though admittedly i'm fond of the japanese culture).
much as it has become the norm in this part of the world, kihachi is located in an otherwise unremarkable strip mall off the busy sawmill road, just south of the 270 intersection on the north end of town (parking is plentiful). in fact, upon entering, you'll likely again be struck by the unremarkable décor, which is largely dominated by light-colored wood and bamboo juxtaposed against off-white paper screens. the room is brightly lit, but still manages to provide an appropriate atmosphere for that evening's festivities. there are a handful of western-style tables as well as a string of chairs along the bar, but if you're coming for a special occasion, i'd recommend opting for one of the private tatami mat rooms (with a hole cut out under the table so westerners can still sit comfortably), though be prepared to remove your shoes if you do. they are only open for dinner monday through saturday and reservations are highly recommended.
kihachi is, in essence, a very high-end version of an izakaya, or a japanese pub (for lack of a better translation). this would normally be the type ofplacewhere folks could congregate after work over a beer or glass of sake, eat small plates of whatever is in season at that time, and discuss the events of the day. being in the us, however, it seems to have taken on more of a formal dining experience - which isn't to say that's a negative (just different). the chef, mike kimura, travels to the local market each day to procure select ingredients, ensuring everything is as fresh as can be (also meaning the menu rotates frequently, even nightly).
the normal menu is written in japanese characters, but each item does have a brief english description beside it. you'll find many of the japanese standards listed: soba, udon, ramen, tempura, a handful of sushi options, etc. whereas these are all excellent choices, the hot ticket is to look right past these to the "daily specials" section, written entirely in japanese on the sticky-note portion of the menu. your waiter or waitress will graciously translate each of the 12-15 items for you in detail (so whatever you do, don't send them away at this point!), and i'd recommend simply ordering a handful of these specials to pass around the table.
if you're really in the mood for a memorable meal, or are celebrating a special occasion, there is no better option than the "omakase" meal - which basically means you put yourself in the chef's hands, allowing him to dictate the course of your meal. this has to be ordered at least 2 days in advance to give the chef time to prepare, and usually consists of roughly 9 different courses over a 2-3 hour period. many of the courses won't simply be a single item, but will be a selection of items all presented with a similar theme (i.e. - a sashimi plate, a grilled plate, a fried plate, etc.). the last time i went, some of the highlights, for example, were the monkfish liver (my personal favorite), berkshire pork cheek, giant octopus (flown in from japan that day) with wasabi salt, grilled ginko nuts, and wagyu beef nigiri - all of which were divine in themselves, let alone as part of larger meal. and in case you're curious, the cost can vary depending upon what is served, but expect to pay in the $80-100 range per person for the omakase meal.
the drink menu is relatively brief, offering only a handful of japanese beers, 5-6 wine options, 5-6 sake options, and 5-6 shochu options, but the selections are well chosen and the mark-ups aren't as high as you'll find at wine bars or other fine-dining establishments in the area. for example, the sake selections ranged from $10-19 per chilled glass for a variety of ginjo and dai-ginjo labels, with each glass being an extremely generous pour of a nearly over-flowing rocks glass. some have mentioned that the service can be slow - which is likely a cultural difference - but haste is basically the opposite of what this establishment represents. if you are polite and show respect to the servers, the respect will be doubled when returned back to you.
i will admit that it took me a long time to work up the courage to venture into kihachi, as the hype and press circulating around them - not to mention the cultural barriers and the expense - can be intimidating at first, but i'm certainly glad i did. every meal inevitably becomes one of my favorite or most cherished dining memories, and i'm always selfishly trying to conjure up excuses to go back. if you're on the fence, i'd recommend just taking the plunge - you won't regret it. after all, we are both lucky and honored to have such an establishment here in columbus. enjoy.
must-try dish: monkfish liver