the smell of barbequed chicken hits you as soon as you turn onto the main street of granville. while this suburb is probably best known as the home of the original el jannah, it is immediately apparent to me that this is not where this mouth-watering aroma is emanating from... taking up several shop-fronts, the culprit is hawacharcoalchicken. it has bright red awnings, and an extensive indoor seating area that seems to go on forever. you order at the counter where you can watch meat skewers being hand-turned over charcoal, and endless racks of flattened chickens rotating on a spit to a soundtrack of pops and sizzles from fat dripping onto glowing charcoal. as you'd expect, the scent of charred chicken skin is even stronger in here, and it makes my mouth water even after a half-eaten, unsatisfying dinner elsewhere. we consume our second dinner at one of the street-side outdoor tables, where we can watch late-night granville parade by. most of them seem to be coming to hawa, or...