admittedly fond of one off hospitality after memorable meals at avec, blackbird, nico and publican, not to mention my sister’s wedding reception at publican quality meats, it was only a nearly four year absence from chicago that prevented visiting dove's luncheonette sooner, paul kahan’s wicker park diner remaining quite popular and still frequently generating a wait at all hours of the day.
found beneath the tracks of the blue line on damen and toqued by chef de cuisine tom carlin, the idea of counter-service mexican fare in a hip setting plus plenty of mezcal following kahan’s mega-successful big star, it was bellied up to the bar that a sleepy-eyed woman offered greetings, coffee plus a menu, high heat and humidity welcoming only two of three with ice water quickly poured and a two-course order to follow.
disappointed to be visiting dove’s alone, an expansivemenuthat changes slightly at noon offering no shortage of temptation, it was while 70s and 80s tunes played overhead that line cooks were watched firing plates at breakneck pace, everything prepared with great care, timing and cleanliness despite close quarters.
trending mostly savory, enchiladas and hash both evidently popular, it was after a menu-described fifteen minutes that scalding cast iron was presented alongside fried chicken soaked in thick gravy, peas and onions, each ingredient equally prominent across the palate to form one of the most ‘rib-sticking’ dishes in recent memory while the pancake was best along the edges where maple syrup had concentrated and caramelized, though the center was also pleasant thanks to bursting berries and tangy crema.
not presenting a dessertmenuat 9:00am, though pie, shakes and ice cream are available at all hours, it was with the young day’s third slice of pie that the check was served, a lightly sweetened cinnamon custard wedge from hoosier mama pie company one of those instances where outsourcing to an expert seems well advised as opposed to taking the easy route.