whether or not new haven “needed” another pizzeria is questionable, the trio of pepe’s, modern and sally’s along with bar and several smaller shops already making the college-town a dining destination, but when da legna opened in 2012 it was clear chef daniel parillo had something to say and since that time his space on state street has blazed its own path with locals and visitors happy to come along for the ride.
setting aside the coal ovens and brief menus in favor of wood, unique ingredients and a kitchen fully capable of serving three courses, the intention of building an actual restaurant instead of just a pizzeria evident from day one, it was approximately thirty minutes after opening that seats were found on a sunny saturday in january, the service exceedingly pleasant with a digital menu quickly provided along with a glass of water.
offering a full-bar including creative cocktails plus an extensive menu of pizzas, pastas, appetizers, salads and desserts, a few favorites highlighted by staff in clever t-shirts proclaiming “i love new haven” with a slice inplaceof the traditional heart, it was after briefly debating gnocchi that the decision was instead made to invest in two pies, the scorching hot oven turning both out in ten minutes as the restaurant was not yet busy, though walking by around 7:00pm that evening there was a line out the door.
calling the concept “neapolitan in nature, new haven in spirit,” chef parillo’s childhood nearby giving him an appreciation for local ingredients and a lot of char, it was holding one of the slices sideways with no discernible bend that this pizza differentiated itself from most wood-fired pies, the sourdough’s cornicione not nearly as puffy while the base is crisp and crackling like pepe’s or modern but improved upon with better cheese whether on the clark street with roasted vegetables and pools of ricotta or the figura pizza topped in imported prosciutto, blue cheese and figs with lightly truffled honey.
packing up a few slices for the road in an effort to save space for dessert, the tableside s’mores brulee catching eyes all around when presented, suffice it to say that finding a better way to end a meal for less than ten bucks will take considerable effort as the $8 glass bowl with a torched marshmallow and burning woodchip for aromatics is expectedly sweet yet nicely balanced by dark chocolate and large enough that it is probably best shared.