serving rio de janeiro since 1894,confeitariacolombo is one of centro’s most popular restaurants, and although high ceilings surrounded by mirrors build a divine ambiance the portuguese pastries fall short of what can be found at less celebrated spots such as b.lem and casa mathilde in são paulo.
founded by joaquim borges de meireles and manuel josé lebrão, and decorated art nouveau from floor to second story tearoom added later, it is with crowds gathered in the entryway that one must jostle to examine pastry cases, the collection fairly concise though a more extensive menu is offered for those who desire table service.
elegant enough to have once hosted the queen of england, and full from open until close daily, it was with several items plated that a standing table was found empty, first bites of colombo’s egg custard finding center overcooked and crust too moist while the walnut tart fared better thanks to unadulterated nuts juxtaposing sweetened custard beneath.
standing near stained glass, no detail overlooked right down to tiled floors and engraved frames on the wall, trouxinha de ovos tasted a lot like pastel de nata in strands without the crust while viradinho de banana eats like a laminated éclair, but without the textural appeal that seems possible if the filling were creamy instead of chunky.
understanding the chocolate-hazelnut tart to be something of a signature, the flavor as expected amidst thick ganache, snacks concluded with a chocolate napoleon that once again seemed to have been sitting for a while as the pastry was somewhat mushy compared to what is offered at other brazilian and portuguese bakeries.