blue hill at stone barns
november 12, 2016
chef & co-owner dan barber
vice president irene hamburger
general manager philippe gouze
wine director charles puglia
accolades:
-#48, san pellegrino worlds 50 best
-#7, oad u.s. best restaurants
-"excellent" rating, new york times
-james beard outstanding restaurant
review:
the excitement and sense of exclusivity begins immediately upon driving up the lengthy driveway as you gaze upon the castle-like stone barns, while the last of the sun's orange rays glow on the horizon as twilight beckons. blue hill at stone barns opened in the spring of 2004 with a working four seasonfarmsourcing nearly all of its ingredients for its innovative tasting menus from the surrounding fields and pastures. the rest, from chef and co-owner dan barber's family ownedfarmin barrington, massachusetts. the restaurant has without a doubt one of the most beautiful dining rooms i've ever been in. the former barn's tall ceilings lined with stunning dark wood beams look down on the beautiful centerpiece of a miniature oak tree filled with in-season brightly colored leaves reminiscent of chicago's alinea when fall arrives.
"grazing, pecking, rooting". the only three words given to describe your multicourse tasting menu at blue hill at stone barns. the cost is $238 per person and an optional wine pairing is offered for an additional $158. although, you'd be wise to splurge with jean georges alum charles puglia as wine director. the cocktail list is brief, but each and every one of their outstanding concoctions follow the restaurant's seasonal theme and use of the highest quality ingredients. or somehow go the complete opposite direction and make it work wonders. take their "daily bread", which features a house made syrup from stale bread from the bakery along with splashes of whiskey, sweet vermouth, sherry, egg white and nutmeg, all coming together to make a killer finisher to charles' outstanding beverage pairings.
over the course of 3-4 hours, you will be taken on a highly seasonal culinary journey of blue hill's fields and pastures as dozens of courses arrive one by one or two by two, each not far from its primitive form. the experience is less of a meal and more of an art show. skillful cooks turn vegetables into portrait worthy creations and roast the most flavorful and tender chicken you'll ever have, raised just yards from your seat.
at first, "bites" come out swiftly, almost making you feel rushed, however this initial pace is no accident. as a table captain points out-- at this point of the meal they want you to just be constantly eating and talking amongst yourselves about nothing but what is in front of you. an edible conversation piece, if you will. although this fast pace can definitely make you feel overwhelmed and even have you forgetting what you're eating. intentional or not, it can be a little much, as our server explained that many diners have said to have initially felt that way. luckily, this quick pace does not continue and it was after this point where i became fully submerged in dan barber's cooking.
as the meal continues it becomes even more hands on and theatric. it becomes certain to be a fun time while you drink great wine and are in great company as you crack jokes and giggle like the middle school days while searching for burdock root custard tarts hiding under a pile of bright red leaves that are placed in the center of your table.
at blue hill at stone barns there are no truffles, foie gras or japanese wagyu. their truffles are the ultra-seasonal turmeric broth harvested in full form for only a few weeks a year. as eric ripert of le bernardin says "fish is the star of the plate", stone barns can follow this mantra with vegetables.farmto table in the most literal sense you can imagine. caviar, a rareity for the restaurant, was included in one course during my meal but it was strangely not served with a wooden or pearl spoon, therefore forcing you to use your metal utensils and risk compromising its flavor. you are also given a bundle of utensils wrapped up in cloth for you to choose your own way of eating. "there's no wrong way to dine at blue hill", a server adds. i however, would have much preferred to know how the chef advises his cooking to be best enjoyed.
if you're lucky, you'll be taken on "an adventure" to their outdoor fire-heavy grill while enjoying a gourmet hot dog made from beets and pork with condiments of green tomato relish, beet ketchup and coriander mustard. then you can wash it down with an ice cold craft beer while a cook tells you the story of how they make their charcoal and how nothing at stone barns goes to waste as he or she opens a bin filled with scraps of charcoaled bones. hopefully, you'll also take a trip to their bakery and enjoy listening to bakers share their passion while you sample several warm breads minutes out of the oven, including the obviously exclusive dan barber wheat.
journey 30 or so miles north of new york city to blue hill at stone barns with close friends, family or an exceptionally romantic date for an epically fun time filled with laughs, great food and drink. expect professional service and a highly educated, talented and luxuriantly dressed staff. your napkins will be folded, your needs will be met and your taste buds will be stimulated. go to blue hill with an open mind and with all aversions left at home. leave yourself in chef dan barber's hands and be immersed in culinary excellence.
3/4 stars.
⭐️ good
⭐️⭐️ very good
⭐️⭐️⭐️ excellent
⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️⭐️ world class