benares is the brain child of celebrity chef, atul kochhar, the first indian chef to be awarded a coveted michelin star, whilst head chef at tamarind, and is located in the heart of mayfair. he's renowned for combining his heritage with his love for traditional british ingredients in order to create a unique and interesting indian cuisine.
on arrival, we were greeted by the doormen who opened the doors into a dimly lit reception area which was more reminiscent of a spa than a restaurant. the maitre d' took my name and a hostess led us upstairs to the restaurant, passing a beautiful, calming still water pond filled with exotic flowers at the top of the stairs. whilst the low-lit bar area was vibrant and stylish, the square shaped dining room itself was rather minimalist and lacked personality. our table was located in a smaller dining area towards the back of the larger dining room and unfortunately lacked any sort of atmosphere.
we were asked if we'd like to have a drink at the bar first, but given we were both famished, opted to have drinks at our table instead. as it was a night of celebrating, we headed straight for the drinks' menus so we could get to toasting my good news. the cocktail menu at benares is truly tantalising, taking inspiration from chef kochhar's innovative cuisine. indy ordered a rendezvous, a delicious blend of coconut cream, fresh passion fruit and lychee juice (he's tee-total at the mo!), whilst i went for a glass of one of my favourite champagnes, laurent perrier brut. we were also presented with a box of crispy poppadoms and a trio of dips, followed by an amuse bouche of cauliflower fritters and spicy mint sauce; a nice touch but a bit bland for our tastes.
as mentioned, atul kochhar's take on indian cuisine is a combination of his indian heritage and british ingredients and at benares he has created a menu marrying indian tastes with traditional english fare. opting to dine from the a la carte menu, we headed straight to the starters and were impressed with the variety on offer, ranging from pan-roasted scallops (we don't cook these at home!) to aloo chaat.
we decided to keep starters simple and started with the aloo kachaloo chaat, a warm salad of potatoes, crispy sweet potatoes and yoghurt foam. aloo chaat is one our favourite savoury snacks and we were looking forward to seeing kochhar's take on this traditional dish but unfortunately, we were left underwhelmed due to a lack of flavour and spice.
starters devoured we moved onto ordering our main course dishes. again we were impressed with the variety on offer which ranged from innovative seafood dishes to traditional tandoori chicken. as soon as indy spotted the tandoori murg, nothing else got a look in. an old classic, the tandoori murg was cooked to perfection; the chicken was succulent and the portion size was good. the mint chutney and summer salad were the perfect accompaniments to counter the spice.
also wanting something tandoori based, i went down the seafood route and ordered the tandoori macchi aur kekda, a dish comprising of baked organic salmon, scottish crab croquette, spiced vermicelli topped with a coconut and curry leaf sauce. the salmon was so tender and literally melted in my mouth with every bite. the coconut and curry leaf sauce was flavourful but not overbearing and didn't detract from the salmon's taste. i wasn't a fan of the croquette and found the flavours to be quite overpowering, but overall i really enjoyed my food.
we also ordered a side dish of punjabi chole - chickpeas cooked a spicy, tomato based sauce which was rich - and a side of garlic naan. in hindsight, given how the cuisine is contemporary indian, we didn't really need the naan as an accompaniment to our dishes and it ultimately went to waste.
by the end of mains we were well and truly stuffed with absolutely no intention of ordering dessert...until we saw the dessert menu that is. my eyes were immediately drawn to the dark chocolate mousse with passion fruit and hot chocolate sauce and having eyed it up on our neighbour's table, i knew exactly what i was ordering. not wanting to share with indy, i coaxed him into ordering the guanaja truffle with eve strawberry ice cream, another chocolate based dessert which i was convinced he'd enjoy.
the desserts arrived and i was presented with a plate of chocolate truffles with a congratulations message and a congratulations from our waitress - a really nice touch from the restaurant. the presentation of the other desserts was immaculate. the dark chocolate mousse was essentially a chocolate bomb which melted away when our waitress poured the hot chocolate sauce over it to reveal vanilla ice cream inside. the chocolate was deliciously rich and the strawberries and passion fruit jelly cubes helped to counter the richness. indy and i were literally fighting over this dessert and it was most certainly the highlight of our evening! (you can see a video of this dessert over on my instagram). the guanaja truffle with eve strawberry ice cream was also delicious. a truffle cake, made using guanaja, a dark, aromatic chocolate with a subtle coffee taste. the strawberry ice cream was a great accompaniment and helped to balance the cake's richness.
it's easy to see why atul kochhar maintained his michelin star when he opened benares. the cuisine is a blend of traditional indian flavours, anglicized to create unique tastes. however, i'm inclined to say that in some instances, the strength of the indian flavours are unfortunately lost.
the a la carte menu itself is quite pricey, with starters ranging from £13 - £23 and mains from £24 - £36. however, the restaurant does have a variety of dining options, including a two course (£29) and a three course (£39) set menu, giving you the chance to experience michelin starred dining for a fraction of the price. various other dining options include the chef's table, which gives an intimate view of the chefs and kitchen during theserviceand the sommelier's table, where guests are surrounded by some of the world's finest wines and champagnes.
whilst we really enjoyed our food and felt theservicefrom our waitress roxanne was impeccable, the atmosphere of the restaurant was really lacking for a mayfair restaurant on a friday evening. it was great that we managed to snag a last minute booking, but somewhere more upbeat may have been more suited to the occasion. that said, i'm happy we've ticked benares off our restaurant bucket list and recommend it to those who like contemporary and innovative indian cuisine.