i was saddened by the recent closure of two of our favourite fancy dining options (clooney and merediths) so i booked a surprise birthday dinner for my wife back at the grove, where we hadn't eaten for many years. this is the first time i've been here since ben bayly became chef. the short summary: it was superlative. we opted for the 4-course version of the menu, and as many people have noted, that was plenty of food, due to the protein-rich 'snacks' that came before and between course: fried oysters, a fantastic japanese savory custard, a deep-fried pork cube, all of them single-bite taste sensations. the savory courses we had were the tuna (fantastic horseradish sorbet), the hapuka, and the wagyu beef. the stand-out dish of the three was the hapuka, served on a pea purée with some fava beans. there was a failure of communication over desert choices, but we were the winners in the deal, as it meant that we had a raspberry souffle each and also tried the 'black forest'. the latter was very good, but my advice: eat the souffle. great and genuinely pleasant service, and a smart and contemporary fit-out (though not as striking and memorable as the late, lamented clooney.) a genuinely five-star experience all round.