recently, a special lunch was held to herald the upcoming influx of new bars and venues planned for the calthorpe estate in edgbaston. the organisers chose one of the pillars of the city’s fine dining scene, simpsons restaurant, to host. although the menus are refreshed regularly, this review will give you a good idea of what to expect at one of the first michelin star restaurants in birmingham.
atmosphere
the building, a listed georgian mansion, will appeal to anyone who appreciates historical grandeur. high ceilings, sweeping staircases and elegant rooms manage be both impressive and cosy at the same time. you almost get the impression of being at the home of a very rich friend, albeit one with their own private bar, cookery school and wrap-around conservatory.
food the starter was a crispy duck egg, a small globe of breadcrumbs with a gooey egg in the centre, resting on a puddle of potato foam. and on the side, a sliver of smoked salmon decorated with chopped parsley and a dollop of black avruga caviar. i enjoyed this, although slightly disappointed by not having a more out-of-the-ordinary starter than salmon. however, the dish made up in flavour for what it lacked in adventure.
a special mention for the breads, at this point. for someone who enjoys snacking between courses, like myself, the quality of the bread is important. the gorgeous spirals of soft buttery dough filled with black olive tapenade definitely did the trick. the slow-cooked belly of pork came out on a dramatic, black, textured plate, which set off the colours of the various ingredients perfectly. one of the criticisms you often hear against gourmet or michelin restaurants is that it’s a case of style over substance. and admittedly, none of the portions were large. but in the case of this main course, the richness and textures of the meat, set off so well by the butternut, black pudding, capers and raisins, provided the perfect example of ‘quality over quantity.’ dessert came with a touch of drama. the chocolate sphere, a big marbled ball of purple and silver, came out and sat in front of the bemused guests for a while. then out came the waiters again, armed with jugs of hot raspberry jam, which they poured over the ball, melting it away to reveal the tiny fruit jellies and fresh berries inside.
drinks the wine list, as you might expect, is both extensive and a little expensive, particularly the ruinarts, bollingers and moëts on the bubbly menu. in keeping with simpsons’ classic cuisine, the reds and whites are dominated by french chateaux, but a couple of interesting and more exotic picks crop up. geržinic malvazija 2011 is one of four croatian bottles on offer, while hungary, slovenia and greece are also represented. we were treated to a pre-lunch taste of edgbaston, a sweet apple, rhubarb and vodka cocktail from the soon-to-open edgbaston boutique hotel & lounge. then the main course was accompanied by purity mad goose ale, to celebrate a new craft beer bar opening next year in the city centre.
pricing
set lunch menu: £40 per person (3 courses + half-bottle of wine)
tasting menu: £90 per person (add £55 for wines)
a la carte: starters around £15, mains around £26, desserts around £11
bottles of wine range from £30-£70 all the way up to £300, or £500 on the champagne list.
overall
despite the event being a specially-arranged occasion, it did give a sense of the normal dining experience at simpsons. there were many other diners there having lunch, and the kitchens were bustling with activity. you couldn’t fault the luxurious setting, nor the attentive service, nor the fantastically-presented food. despite not being bowled over by the starter or dessert, i could have eaten the main twice over, and appreciated the spectacle of the pudding ‘finale.’ all in all, simpsons is a very special place to dine.