man is born free, and everywhere he is in chains. or rather, a chef is born free, and then they get a michelin star. this tends to be my feeling whenever i come out of a two star restaurant. with the exception of dinner by heston, i’m yet to have a 2 star meal that was truly memorable. fera, sketch and the square all blend into one memory. a memory of a certain type of cooking, one that was excellent at the time of eating, but forgettable soon afterwards. these restaurants sit in a purgatory. they lack that freshness and enthusiasm to push boundaries that many of the new 1 star restaurants do, but they aren’t the game changers at the top of their field like the 3 star restaurants. instead it sits uncomfortably between- it is cooking that has earned its stripes over the years and honed in a style of its own, and will always deliver a fantastic meal. but it seems that many of these chefs, in search of that elusive third star, have forgotten what got them their first. they are focused on maintaining and perfecting what they have, not thinking outside of the box. the box here being the dining room filled with a predominantly wealthy, middle aged clientele, who are not here to be challenged by a new dining experience, but instead just want that dish they’ve seen the (no doubt now celebrity) chef cook on tv. there’s also the contracts these chefs have with the prestigious 5 star hotels, which no doubt are like getting a 5 year contract at chelsea. what seems to happen is that those stand out performances that got them noticed in the first place stop, and instead they go into cruise control, producing the same high standard each time, without pushing on. they’re like a world class player earning their final big pay cheque. fully deserved, but you know that they can still do better if they really try.