i first ate at le gavroche almost three years to the day from this meal. it was at a time when this blog was a distant dream and we ate for pleasure only. oh, how i miss those days. it still stands as my favourite ever meal; perhaps not the best food, but certainly the best overall experience. there was, and still is, something uniquely special about walking underneath the famous signage, through the heavy doors, down the stairs and into that dimly lit basement dining room. there is ceremony with every nudge of a chair and pouring of wine, and touch of class at every detail with custom made table sculptures, plates, and silverware. we ate chicken with parmesan risotto, drank our body weight in wine and overindulged michael roux jnr himself in person at our excessive praise of the soufflé suissesse – a long standing stalwart of the menu here so light it threatened to drift back up those stairs and off into the clouds. i consider myself lucky enough to have eaten at birmingham’s five michelin starred restaurants on many occasions but our pursuit outside of my home town has never led us back to the same place. now, with phil howard departing from the square there was only ever one option for a celebratory return meal: three months back we decide to hammer the phone lines at 9am and secure a table at le gavroche.