perhaps the most famous indian restaurant in birmingham, lasan sits tucked in a quiet street around the corner from st paul’s square. it was the winner of tv’s prestigious great british menu in 2011. and it was also designated best local restaurant by gordon ramsay’s the f word. suffice it to say that the venue, led by head chef aktar islam, has become a bit of a culinary institution. we went along to try the new menu.
the interior somehow manages to combine old-world glamour and contemporary style, with a distinctly indian infusion. ornate, gilt-framed mirrors add to the feeling of space, while elegant statues of hindu gods cast their eyes over the simple dining room. we were sat beneath a wooden sitar, that stringed instrument whose haunting notes make indian music sound so, well, indian.
food
the new sunday summer banquet menu is designed for sharing. although we were presented with the menu for reference, this is a try-and-taste rather than a pick-and-choose experience. all the dishes listed are prepared and brought to the table for guests to enjoy.
our starters were wonderfully soft potato cakes, pakoras and onion bhajis, served with a trio of chutneys including tomato and mint coriander.
then the main courses, a selection of six dishes, accompanied by a basket of assorted naan breads. we ate keema mutter, minced lamb with green peas, dhaba murgh, a spicy chicken curry inspired by indian street food, and subzi jalfrezi, made with marinated vegetables and free of meat.
tarkari biryani, a delicately seasoned preparation of saffron-coloured rice, made the perfect accompaniment to these rich sauces. we were familiar with tarkewali dal, a lentil curry, but found salmon khatta a new experience. the fish imparted its flavours assertively, giving the curry a very distinctive character.
dessert was a vermicelli khmeer, that classic indian pudding of delicate sweet noodles in a creamy milk bath, flavoured with aromatic spices, almonds and dried fruits.
drink
for us, a chilean cabernet sauvignon was the smooth yet spicy accompaniment to this generous indian spread. only a few of the wines are available by the glass, including this one. look for valdivieso.
pricing
three courses, totalling twelve different dishes to sample altogether, costs £19.98 per person. children under 10 eat for £9.98.
updated:
2 course - £30.95
3 course - £35.95
4 course - £38.95