i went to hélène darroze last night hoping i'd still be able to say it is my favourite restaurant in london. i am happy to report i was not disappointed. this is definitely a well-oiled haute cuisine machine!
we were welcomed to our table despite a ridiculous delay due to the tube strike. the friendly french sommelier asked us to choose from five types of champagne by the glass (three white and two rosé). we went for one of the rosés, and it was a very pleasant way to forget about our traffic trouble. our (french) waitesss arrived with the menu - an innovative affair that looks like a game of marbles. you are supposed to choose either five or seven (or, if you are brave, nine) of the main ingredients for so many courses on your menu. we were reasonable (for once) and went for the five courses!
the amuse-bouche consisted of a pea velouté, cheese croquettes (delicious) and a confit tomato tuile with freshly cut ham from the south west of france (where hélène is from herself). they also have amazing artisan bread and two types of butter (one of them with chilli pepper!).
for our first course, my wife went for the caviar dish, which was nicely presented in a bowl with tiny beautiful garnishes, but we were unable to tell what they were, as they were quickly drowned in a sauce. my foie gras starter was beautifully presented and was also very tasty. it was placed in a jelly with cherries and wild berries.
for second course, we both went for the smoked eel - this was really good and we wished there were more of it!
my wife then went for one of hélène's signature dishes: the tandoori scallop - a good size and beautifully presented. the spice was not overpowering, but you could certainly feel it.
my choice of lobster was a bit less inspired, not because of the lobster itself (a few nice pieces were served), but because of the garnishes (i'm not a big fan of vegetables on the best of days, but these were definitely not so impressive).
for the fourth course, we both went for the fillet steak (which is only served for two diners). the steak was beautifully cooked medium rare, cut in half at our table and presented to us with a minced snail crust on top, some extra snails on the side, fennel and a bordelaise wine sauce. this was all very very good.
before our dessert, the waiter asked us if we wanted to add a cheese course - goat's cheese with honeycomb. we said yes, of course (who can resist cheese?), and,again, this was beautifully presented.
for dessert, my wife went for a decadent savarin with armagnac, and i chose the strawberry panna cotta (with rose jelly and lychee). we were also served macarons with salted caramel and blackcurrant jelly and some choux with a tonka bean cream.
the wine list is impressive, but we decided to follow the advice of our friendly sommelier and opted for two glasses of a beautiful mosel riesling and two of a very nice italian red, whose name i forgot. to finish it all off, while my wife was sipping on a fresh mint tea, i just had to have some of their fabulous armagnac (courtesy of another branch of the darroze family).
the staff were all very attentive, chatty and friendly, and they also went above and beyond when i asked them for a painkiller for my terrible tooth ache. they did not find any at the hotel reception, but one of them returned a little later with a fresh box of ibuprofen from the pharmacy - amazing service.
this does not come cheap, of course, but it is definitely worth it for a special occasion (and ours was a double special one!)