a new dining destination in del ray. i decided to take advantage of the del ray cafe's soft opening to have a nice lunch out on friday. i am happy to report i made a very good decision. the cafe is created out of a former residential home that had also recently served as a retail space. the owners have created a parking lot at the back of the building, allowing for a significant amount of off street parking. as you enter across a sizable wraparound porch (which will soon be available for outdoor dining), you see a working kitchen on your right, and a bright, open casual dining area on your left. there are a number of two-tops tables in the room and a long dining shelf against the windows facing the front of the house where you can seat a number of individual diners or a family with small children. the upstairs is divided into two large dining areas, each with high ceilings and a number of skylights to let natural light in throughout the day.
i was seated downstairs and started with a bowl of the carrot and ginger 'soup of the day'. i was served a bowl of pureed vegetables tasting as much of cream and butter as of carrots and ginger. there was just enough bread left to clean out the bowl when i was finished. while i was waiting for my entree, the ladies seated next to me were making short work of two servings of pei mussels meunière with saffron. one of them was so intent on consuming every bit of the broth that i thought she was going to start licking the pot the mussels came in. i chose the chatham cod on crushed new potato for my main course (this was a very leisurely lunch). it was perfectly cooked, and was just the right amount for a midday meal. after i finished, i was told by staff that they were going to serve brunch on saturday, and then close for the rest of the weekend to take a look at what was working and what things needed to be addressed prior to the official opening on monday, may 14.
with that information in hand and a positive first impression for lunch, i decided to go back for the brunch first thing saturday - another good idea. they had just opened the doors when i arrived and i was again seated in the first floor dining area . i had planned to try the french toast that was listed on the monday - friday breakfast menu, but it was not listed for the weekend brunch menu. i was delighted when they offered to prepare it anyway. what came out were two pieces of perfectly cooked brioche bread topped with warm, poached fresh fruit and a small mound of creme fraiche on the side of the plate. as with lunch, the portions were not the usual mountain of food that would guarantee a request for a take home container, but the civilized portions you would expect at a french country cafe. again, i observed a couple at another table who were being served their orders of eggs benedict. the young lady took a first bite and just closed her eyes and tilted her head back in enjoyment - no words needed.
i think this restaurant has a chance to establish itself as one of the best places to dine in del ray. the only problem i can foresee is too much popularity, too fast impacting the food service. the food is cooked with care and with an appreciation for the quality of its ingredients - which means it takes some time to reach the table. when i was there for lunch on friday, some of the people arriving after 12:30 or so were told they would have to wait until some tables cleared if they wanted to be seated.
i talked to the owner, laurent janowsky, after my breakfast. he is still working to bring aboard what he considers adequate waitstaff for the cafe, and is still working out the reservations vs walk-in policies. if future customers will have a little patience and understanding while the additional service staff is brought aboard and ownership works out the inevitable kinks that occur with a new operation, they will be amply rewarded.
by the way, after my conversation with mr. janowsky, he offered me a small croissant as i left. now i have another reason to go back.