take a walk through td centre’s concourse level and you’ll encounter mark mcewan’s domination of the floor: the second mcewan grocery store and eatery occupies an entire corner, walk in a bit further and his long time restaurant bymark (a creative conjunction of “by” and “mark”) takes up the rest of the corner. it’s a restaurant known for its decadent foie gras burger with a hefty price to match. like most of mcewan’s ventures, it’s a fine dining establishment where bill totals easily reach $100+ a person. hence, during summerlicious, their special $48 dinner menu always draws a crowd.
what looks like mechanically processed tuna certainly tasted that way - instead of dicing the fish by hand, the tartare arrives pulverized so you end up spreading (rather than scooping) the mixture on the crispy wonton chips. i could have looked past the fish’s mushy texture if it was seasoned better; too bad the miso-ginger vinaigrette was so light that most of the flavours were from the fish’s natural oils and the chip. thankfully, the crisp shaved fennel salad on the side helped to wake up the dish, if only smaller pieces were combined into the tartare itself, maybe the starter would have tasted better.
while the summerlicious website describes the cod as being from "fogo island", bymark’s actual menu revises it to "atlantic". honestly, i don’t care that