a shadow of its former self. my partner and i tried out the newest indoctrination into the andrew mcconnell conglomerate after passing a couple of times on the 86. one cold night a few weeks later, before moon under water had opened, we decided to give the builders arms bistro a red hot go.
upon entering the establishment, the first thing that hit us was how unpub-ish it felt. where the front bar of a pub once stood, now felt like a sterile lobby with minimal space and seating. we approached the maitre d in the bistro to hopefully get a table as we hadn't booked. after giving our particulars we were told it would be about an hour for a table, so we headed back to the pubby-barry-thingy to have a beer. we ordered a couple of pints of cricketers arms to be told that they only have pots (no pints! in a pubby-barry-thingy!!). so we stood at the bar for the lack of seats/stools and scoffed at the size of our beers and how stark and sterile they've managed to make a once cosy fitzroy institution.
after 30 minutes we were surprised to learn that a table was ready for us so we moved into the bistro.
look, i am not going to go on about the food. it was delicious as expected from this group of restaurants. we shared smoked curd and clair de lune for starter, rib eye with broccoli salad and house chips for main, and chocolate prune pudding for desert. i couldn't fault it.
what really disappointed me about this establishment is it's distinct lack of ambiance (and i strongly believe that the ambiance is equal to the food in importance). the down-lighting lends a very washed out vibe while the fit out and art work is ordinary and uniform. some candles on tables, or floor lamps in corners could soften the space and add warmth, too. i have heard here and there that what the owners wanted to achieve was a gastropub but they have missed the mark if this is the case (may i point you towards the eagle or marquess tavern in london for accurate representations of what gastropubs should be).
it is a real shame that the builders arms hotel (pub) is gone and i can understand that for locals, it may feel like losing an old friend. it highlights the hits and misses of gentrification and how it can negatively impact on a given area. the builders arms hotel for me, is a miss.